OG: 1.059
FG: 1.019
SRM: 41
IBU: 25
ABV: 5.3%

Extract
• 6 lbs Gold LME
• 1 lb Roasted Barley
• 12 oz Crystal 60
• 12 oz Munich II
• 12 oz Chocolate Malt
• 10 oz Flaked Barley
• 8 oz Flaked Oats
• 1 lb lactose (10 minutes)

All grain (Mash 151F) OG was calculated with steep and will be a higher/bigger beer at 75% efficiency
• Replace 6 lbs of Gold LME with 7 lbs Marris Otter Malt

Hops
• 1.0 oz East Kent Golding (60 min)
• 1.0 oz EK Golding (10 Min)

Yeast Options
• WLP001
• WYEAST 1056
• Safale S-05

Requirements
• Minimum 5 gallon brew pot
• Homebrew starter kit
• Bottles for 5 gallons (48 x 12 oz.) with caps and priming sugar or a 5 gallon keg system
• Food safe thermometer with a scale 80 to 212 minimum.

Extract Procedure
Items underlined are defined on the back for further explanation.
Refrigerate the yeast when you get home and store the ingredients in a cool dry area. Remove the yeast from the refrigerator on the morning of brew day and follow the yeast instructions. You can use the worksheet on the back of this page to help record your brewing.

Brew Day
Heat 3.5 gallons of water to 160°F. If included, place the crushed grain in the mesh bag and tie a knot in the end. Steep the crushed grain in the 160°F water for 30 minutes. While steeping, place the liquid extract in hot tap water to make it pour easier. Next, remove the grain and heat the water to a boil, then turn off the burner to avoid scorching and add the Liquid and Dry(if included) Malt Extracts to the boil stirring to dissolve. Once dissolved bring it back to a boil. This mixture is called wort. The wort will foam quite a bit when it first reaches boil and with the first hop addition. Adjust the burner to prevent boil over. To avoid caramelizing too many sugars, you can add half the extract for the last 15 minutes which will also result in a lighter color. Tips: Never leave the grain in above 170°F, which will extract tannins that are not desirable.

Hops addition
This will be a 60 minute boil. We will call the start of the boil minute 60 and the end minute 0. Add the hops through the boil as per the time on the inventory description. Early additions are called bittering hops and latter additions add aroma and flavor. You may find it easier to add the hops in a separate mesh bag to make removing them easy at the end of the boil.

Cool the wort
At the end of the 60 minute boil we want to chill the wort to below 80°F as fast as possible, ideally less than 30 minutes. If you have an immersion chiller, sanitize it by placing it in the boil for the last 10 minutes. If you do not have a chiller, place the whole kettle in an ice bath. Sanitize the primary fermenter and the yeast package. Pour the wort into the fermenter leaving the hops and sludge in the bottom of the kettle. Top off the fermenter to 5 gallons with sterile cool water. Use bottled water or boil tap water ahead of time and allow it to cool to 70°F. When pouring be aggressive to allow a generous splash which will aerate the wort. Using sterile practices, take a sample of wort for the hydrometer and record the Original Gravity. Never return a sample to the wort. This risks contamination.

Pitch the Yeast
In this step we will be dissolving oxygen into the wort for yeast growth. Aerate by splashing with a lid on or with a sanitized stainless whisk. Make sure the wort temperature is in the range for the yeast to be used. Use sterile scissors to cut the yeast package and follow the yeast instructions to pitch the yeast. Fill the airlock with sterile water and place it on the fermenter. Place the fermenter in a dark place that will keep the temperature in range for the yeast used. Within 24-48 hours you should see a foam krausen on the top and CO2 bubbles in the airlock.

Primary Fermentation 2-3 Weeks
Primary fermentation will end in the 1st week, but allow the beer to stay in the primary fermenter for 2 weeks. The yeast will clean up some of the off flavors on days 7-14.

Secondary Fermenter 1-2 Weeks
This step is optional. See the back of this page for the reasons to secondary age your beer. Sanitize the siphoning equipment and the secondary fermenter. Place the primary fermenter on a counter and the secondary on the floor. Place the dry hops, if included, in the bottom of the secondary. Siphon the beer into the secondary fermenter ensuring no splashing. At this point, oxygen is a threat to the beer. Replace the sanitized airlock and lid/bung and place the fermenter back in a dark area.

Bottle Conditioning 2 Weeks
For about 2.5 Volumes of CO2, use 4.5 oz of corn sugar.
Sanitize bottles, caps, and all bottling equipment. Mix the corn sugar with 2 cups of water and bring to a boil for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in a water bath with the lid on the pot. Pour the mixture into the bottom of the bottling bucket. Transfer the beer into the bucket using the same siphon procedure as above. Take a sample for the Final Gravity measurement in the hydrometer. This sample should be before the beer mixes with the corn sugar. Recommend taking the sample from what is left in the fermenter. Fill with a bottle filler and cap the bottles paying attention to sanitation. Store the bottles at room temperature in a dark place for 2 weeks.

Serving

Pour into a glass leaving the sediment at the bottom of the bottle.